Saturday, May 22, 2010

Faction Decisions

I have still been going back and forth about faction options - I posted my thoughts after reading the descriptions earlier, but I find myself more and more attracted to the Menoth models and love the parts of the backstory I have read. I may find myself going that direction just because of the models and story (which is not a bad reason).

I have been trying to squeeze in a Vassal game - but I am upfront and honest in wanting just a battle box game (since those are the cards and rules I have access to). Haven't found one yet, but am going to be heading to my local gaming store to hopefully getting in a demo game this upcoming week, before making any kind of final decision about it.

So far my purchase list will be:
1) Warmachine Prime MkII (I wish Barnes and Noble had this - I have a gift card with nothing much to buy there since I am using the library so much lately)
2) Whichever faction Battle Box I end up going with
3) Privateer Press Faction Paint set

The painting is the most intimidating part of this to me (I have absolutely zero artistic ability - again, I am an attorney for a reason) and I am still looking for solid introduction to miniature techniques. This seems pretty good and warseer has a huge collection of links, but I really feel like I won't realize what I don't know until I get some paints/minis in my hand to make an attempt with. When that happens, many laughs will ensue from what I am sure will be some ugly paint jobs.

3 comments:

  1. You might also want to check out coolminiornot.com. In addition to the great gallery of painted minis, the forums have many fine takes on common painting questions and conundrums.

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  2. Welcome to the hobby. I think that since you are starting from scratch, you should choose a faction based upon what you think looks cool (or has fluff you like). After all, what makes miniature wargaming what it is are the miniatures. If you get far enough into hobby to want to pick up a second faction, then the "how does it play" questions have more weight.

    As far as modeling and painting goes, legal ability is irrelevant to painting ability. I am also a lawyer, as is my usual opponent. I have been painting up miniatures since the mid 90's, and it took years to learn the tricks. Here is my unsolicited advice:

    1. You will need superglue and a set of modeling files in addition to the paints. The files are used to take off mold lines on the model. Believe me, taking some time to get rid of the mold lines does wonders for the look of the model when it is finished.

    2. You may want to consider "pinning" the larger metal models (like the warjacks). Pinning involved drilling a small hole at the joint into each substantial part to be joined together, then using a bit of heavy wire as a pin to help hold them together. Personally, I have found that superglue on the surface of the joints for battlebox models is sufficient, but pinning the models will lead to better durability.

    3. Although it might seem like a good idea to paint all the pieces of a multi-piece model separately before putting the model together (in order to get to the hard to reach parts), try to resist this practice. Assembling the complete model first will make it more durable since the undercoat will help hold it together (and can help cover up little gaps where the pieces don't fit together perfectly).

    4. Use a black undercoat, even if you are choosing the Protectorate of Menoth. The Privateer paints are amazing, and even the lighter colors will cover black undercoat in a single coat. The benefit of black undercoat is that it hides mistakes better than white, and black undercoat in a hard to reach recessed area looks like shading, whereas white undercoat looks like you missed a spot. Also, I find that the Rust-o-leum matte black spray for all surfaces is a great undercoat and can be found at Home Depot for quite a bit less than some name brand modeling primer.

    5. If you use the ink wash method of shading, shade red surfaces (like PoM capes) with a brown ink rather than a red ink.

    6. Doing even simple basing makes the finished miniature look a whole lot better than nothing--more than you would think. For example, let's say you want to give your models a sort of desert basing to match the PoM's arid landscape. One easy method to base this would be to assemble the model, then before undercoating, paint some Elmer's glue across the surface of the base, then dip the base into some sand (which you can buy, or you can just take from a beach somewhere), shaking off the excess. The undercoat will help hold it onto the base, then as your last painting step, paint the sand a medium brown color, and drybrush over it with an off white. Or, you could just glue sand onto the base after you finish painting the model, and let the natural color be what it is.

    Anyway, take that for what it is worth, and have fun.

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  3. I would suggest watching the painting video from Privateer Press. It makes painting less intimidating by using the presented method. Best of luck

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